Page 62 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP

Textile & Handloom Exercise 1.4.37
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Defects and Yarn Quality

Analyze yarn quality to produce fabric

Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• calculate and relate reed count, number of ends per dent, cloth width, reed width, and Ends Per Inch (EPI)
for weaving preparation
• make the loom fully operational
• produce a sample fabric.

Requirements

Tools/Equipment’s/Instruments Materials
• Handloom. (fly shuttle and • Notebook - 1 No.
throw shuttle) - 1 No. • Pen - 1 No.

PROCEDURE

TASK 1: Basic formula
EPI (ends per inch) ≈ Reed Count × Ends per Dent. 4 Calculate total ends
Reed width ≈ Total Ends ÷ (Reed Count × Ends per Total Ends = 80×40
Dent)
= 3200 ends
Total Ends ≈ EPI × Reed Width 5 Summary of calculations
Cloth width ≈ Reed Width − (Shrinkage + Take-up
Allowance) Table 1
Given Example Data S.No. Parameter Calculated value
• Reed Count: 40s (Means 40 dents per inch) 1 Reed count 40s
• Ends per Dent: 2 2 Ends per dent 2
• Planned Cloth Width: 36 inches
• Shrinkage and take-up: Approx. 10% (Assumed) 3 EPI 80
Calculation 4 Planned cloth width 36
1 Calculate EPI (Ends per Inch) 5 Reed width 40
EPI = Reed Count × Ends per Dent 6 Total Ends 3200
EPI = 40 × 2 = 80 Ends per Inch. 6 Analysis / Interpretation
2 Calculate Total Ends Required • Reed selection:
Total Ends = EPI × Reed Width
But first, let’s calculate Reed Width allowing for Choose a 40s reed.
shrinkage. • Denting plan
3 Calculate required reed width 2 ends per dent → In each dent of the reed, pass
Given planned cloth width = 36 inches. 2 warp ends.
Assume 10% shrinkage and take-up: • Width setting
Clothwidth Set reed width at 40 inches to achieve final 36
Reedwidth
(1 - Shrinkage Percentage ) inches after shrinkage.
36 • Warp calculation
Reedwidth
- 1 0.10 Prepare warp with total 3200 ends.
36 Practical Sheet for trainees

0.90 Do calculation as per the above formulas and write it on
the below mentioned table 1.
= 40 inches

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